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VICTORIA SKIMBOARDS REPAIR GUIDE:

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VICTORIA SKIMBOARDS REPAIR GUIDE: Empty VICTORIA SKIMBOARDS REPAIR GUIDE:

Post  sk8punk Mon Aug 11, 2008 9:17 pm

VICTORIA SKIMBOARDS REPAIR GUIDE:

Read all the way through before you begin, this will save you a lot of time and effort. And you wonít burn up the house or ruin your new clothes. This is a test. Skimboards are getting sanding down every time you ride them, learning how do do repairs well is essential knowledge for any skimboard owner.

1. The most typical ding requiring two steps to repair. First a leveling the hole with a putty and second a covering with fiberglass cloth. For the first step start by scraping off the wax around ding and wipe off the residue with a rag, sawdust or sand. Then, clean out all loose material. Let the ding dry out completely. Sand area around the ding two inches beyond the damage. Use 60 grit sandpaper. Use masking tape to cover the area beyond this for three more inches. Use scissored up cloth mixed with *sanding resin to make a thick putty to fill the hole or if itís a 2" or larger diameter ding then use **micro balloons/Aerosil to fill the hole. It is a much lighter filler. Mix some catalyzed resin, 1 part by volume, with 4 to
7 parts micro balloons and fill in the hole. Follow the catalyst to resin ratio instructions on the can. Without instructions a rule of thumb is to use 2% catalyst by volume. Put as much resin as you need in a cup, draw a line at the half way point, this is 50% by volume. Keep halving the amount until you get down to 6%. You only need 1/3rd that amount. A couple ounces
of resin may require only a few drops of catalyst. Do a test batch to dial
yourself into the characteristics of the catalyst because they are all different. Temperature also has a huge effect, it takes twice as much catalyst to set off resin at 60 degrees as it does at 80 degrees. (CAUTION:
CATALYST will blind you if you get it in your eye. Flush for 5 minutes with water.) Mixture will begin hardening in about 20 minutes. Let cure for an hour or two, or better still overnight. Then carve it, or sand it till it is flush with the surface of the board.
Step two: Cut some 6 oz. fiberglass cloth into circles to cover the repair area out to the tape. Get your sanding resin and catalyst ready.
Youíll need mixing cups and a popsicle stick for mixing. Have some acetone (fingernail polish remover) ready for clean up. CAUTION - use rubber-gloves, respirator and, or work outdoors in a well ventilated area. Make sure there are no heat sources around work area that could ignite resin fumes. Mix the catalyst with the resin. Place patches with over ding, and dribble some catalyzed resin onto the cloth. Wet it out completely. Work out the bubbles, wrinkles, and excess resin. Clean off your gloves with acetone and paper towels. Before the repair gets too hard, about 45 minutes, trim the excess fiberglass off at tape line with a sharp, single edge razor blade.
Let resin cure overnight. Next day: Using a ****disc-sanding pad sand edges. Hand sand with 60 grit and a sanding block. If you really want to
overdo it: tape off area again and paint on *****gloss resin Wait
overnight. Pull tape and smooth edges with single-edge blade, wet sand with 400 grit and rub with polish.

2. Tail is worn out on bottom and it needs new coat of resin. Lightly
sand the worn area with 120 grit and tape off sanded area. paint on gloss resin and let sit overnight. Gloss resin is harder and usually requires more catalyst. Use a razor blade or 400 grit sandpaper to smooth sharp edges. You might as well do the nose and any small dings at the same time.

3. Small dings that are barely there. Clean out the loose fiberglass, dry out ding, and sand the edges 1Ēaround ding. Tape off area one inch beyond the ding. Cut up cloth and mix with sanding resin and catalyst. Pack mixture into the hole and poke out the bubbles. Tape over a piece of wax paper. This holds the putty in place and saves time when shaping down the repair after itís hard. Let sit overnight. Sand excess resin down to the tape with the disc sander. Pull the tape and disc sand a little more. Hand-sand the area with 60 grit and a block, fine sand with 120 grit.

4. Broken nose more than two inches back. Solution: Saw it off. Glue on new foam block scrounged from your local surf shop. Shape to resemble old nose.
Glass in two stages. Three layers of 6 oz. cloth for the bottom and three for the top. One side or the other must wrap around to the other side.

5. Regloss whole bottom. When do you need to do this? Only after the bottom is in really, really bad shape. Gloss resin is extremely hard to sand off,
and is very heavy. Disc sanding off the old resin takes 30 minutes with a
really powerful sander and you have to be careful not to overheat the board.
The odds are your board is going to weigh significantly more after reglossing. Try to regloss a board only once or twice during its lifetime.
If you decide to do a regloss be sure to sand off as much of the old gloss as possible. Repair the dings first then disc sand the rest of the bottom.
Keep the new gloss coat thin except around the rails, nose, and tail. Hard car wax will preserve your board bottom if you apply it regularly.

6. Broken board. Bummers Brah! It can happen on the smallest of waves.
Donít worry. Its not too hard to fix and it is generally wonít break there again once it is fixed. Situation: Top of skimboard buckled up and the bottom of the board undamaged. Start the repair by cleaning off the wax.
Then cut away the loose fiberglass using the disc sander at a shallow bevel-angle. Put a 4" wide swath of tape three inches beyond the exposed foam. Set the board on a table and prop the nose up with a small block so the board maintains the correct amount of rocker. Tail flat and nose up with about 2" of rocker is good. Mix sanding resin and Aerosil or micro balloons,
into a thick putty and spackle the goop onto the entire broken area. The idea is to replace the foam lost in the break with as light a material as possible. Next day: Sand the hardened filler until level. Use sanding resin to put on four layers of 6 oz. fiberglass. Trim the excess cloth when resin gels slightly. Sand edges the next day. Be careful to control the rocker for a couple of days while the repair is hardening. Be patient.
Donít rush this process.

7. The cut off and replace bubble repair: Sand through the fiberglass,
holding the disc sander at a 5 to 10 degree angle to the board, in a circle around the bubble. This will cut through the fiberglass and leave you a beveled edge to overlap the repair with the new fiberglass . After the fiberglass has been almost sanded through, just before you hit the foam, use a razor knife to finish the separation of the delamination fiberglass. Fix soft spots in the deck before they get more than 4Ē across. Your board is about to break with this much loose deck.

*Sanding resin: Same as laminating resin but with a tiny amount of dissolved paraffin/wax, added that floats to the surface of the resin as it hardens, forming a barrier between the resin and the air. This allows the resin to cure completely, and makes it sandable.
**Micro balloons/Aerosil (a brand name for one kind of micro balloons) is available from Crystaliner Corporation, 1626 Placentia Ave., Costa Mesa, CA 92627. Phone: (714) 548-5623. A one pound bag is $5.55, a quarter pound bag
is $1.60. (These are 1989 prices) There is also a $10.00 handling charge.
Essential for repairs on large dings or broken boards.
***Laminating resin stays sticky, no waxy barrier film, so that repeated coats can be put on without in between sanding. Use this stuff only if you plan to add later coats of resin and or cloth without sanding in between coats.
****Disc-sanding pad for your electric drill costs about $2.50 at the hardware store. Glue the sandpaper to the disc with sanding-disc adhesive. A drill with sanding pad is the minimum sanding tool needed for repair work.
This setup works faster than any kind of vibrating sander or belt sander.
*****Gloss resin is much, much harder than sanding resin. It is important for repairs in areas of extreme wear.
General tips: Most masking tapes canít be left on overnight under resin
because they fall apart and leave their glue stuck on the board. Trim the repair when it has jelled and is cheese-hard then pull the tape portion off.
Do the disc sanding the next day. Resin, catalyst, acetone and cloth, and micro balloons are available at most boat hardware or surfboard shops. Call first. Two part, 5 minute epoxy is great for quick repairs available in
almost all hardware stores. Products like Solarrez work fine, the sun is
the catalyst for this stuff, quite handy to use.

If you have read this completely, you will save tons of time and the repair will come out much better. Go to the head of the class, pass on ruining the garage floor.

source
http://www.victoriaskimboards.com
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Post  woosa! Tue Aug 12, 2008 11:21 am

adik, wahahahahaaha!
woosa!
woosa!
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Post  skimtinaskim! Thu Aug 14, 2008 5:15 am

ayos sa tips ger. dollar naman. mag-offer ka ng repairing ng skimboards dapat presyong kaibigan lang ha.
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Post  jaro man Thu Aug 28, 2008 12:09 pm

wla lang... napadaan lang ako.. hehehehehe...
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Post  woosa! Thu Aug 28, 2008 1:44 pm

skimtinaskim! wrote:ayos sa tips ger. dollar naman. mag-offer ka ng repairing ng skimboards dapat presyong kaibigan lang ha.
ako susubukan kong magoffer ng repair service sa skimboards... Very Happy
woosa!
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Post  jaro man Thu Aug 28, 2008 6:44 pm

hehehehe... adik epoi! ang dami mong raket! Very Happy
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Post  woosa! Fri Aug 29, 2008 10:57 am

jaro wrote:hehehehe... adik epoi! ang dami mong raket! Very Happy
shempre bro, its a dog eat dog world eh, kayod lang ng kayod. hehehehe!!
woosa!
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